Building New PC



  • CPU:      Intel Core i5-6500 6M Skylake(205)
    MOBO:  GIGABYTE GA-H170-D3HP LGA 1151 Intel(95)
    GPU:      EVGA GeForce GTX 970(300, wait till 1070 release)
    PSU:      SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold(110)
    RAM:      CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 2133(60)
    HDD:      WD Blue 1TB WD10EZEX OEM(54)
    CASE:    NZXT Source 210 S210-001 Black ATX Mid(40)

    $863

    How do you see if a MOBO is ATX Mid vs ATX Full, I can’t seem to find that info anywhere. Thank you commandhat (its a mid) but where did you find that?



  • CPU:      Intel Core i5-6500 6M Skylake(205)
    MOBO:  GIGABYTE GA-H170-D3HP LGA 1151 Intel(95)
    GPU:      EVGA GeForce GTX 970(300, wait till 1070 release)
    PSU:      SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold(110)
    RAM:      CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 2133(60)
    HDD:      WD Blue 1TB WD10EZEX OEM(54)
    CASE:    NZXT Source 210 S210-001 Black ATX Mid(40)

    $863

    How do you see if a MOBO is ATX Mid vs ATX Full, I can’t seem to find that info anywhere. Thank you commandhat (its a mid) but where did you find that?



  • Not as much a suggestion as comparison building, but I figured knowing about the site would help…

    @commandhats:

    Here’s my current PC for $~700. You can change out some of the parts for AMD and/or Radeon parts of the same price and afford to upgrade it a little. (My suggestion would be the GPU if you want to go further; it’s barely VR ready)

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($169.99 @ SuperBiiz)
    Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($62.49 @ SuperBiiz)
    Memory: Mushkin Stealth 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($34.98 @ Newegg) [edit from Commandhat to add a warning: this is only sold via OutletPC currently whom I dislike for misplacing parts. Be ready to contest this purchase if you can’t find anything else you want]
    Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.89 @ Directron)
    Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card  ($303.98 @ Newegg)
    Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case  ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
    Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
    Total: $689.31

    If you want to drive the price as low as possible then PCPartPicker can highlight combo deals, rebates and such for you. Though if you create an account you can also pick which merchants to show the price from so if you still want only Newegg then that’s a thing you can do too.

    Keep in mind this site uses US prices. If you, for example, live in the United Kingdom, you can attach “uk” to the beginning of the url (so uk.pcpartpicker.com) and you’ll get European prices and merchants.



  • Thanks for your comparison build!
    I was using pcpartpicker, and it didn’t even find some deals on NewEgg that were better  :wacko:
    But it did get the price down to 830. The difference in price between my current build and yours:
    GPU(+50), PSU(+50), CPU(-20), MBoard(+70), Case(+60)

    Im pretty set on that GPU. But the others can definitely be cheaper.

    Summary:
    Looking for Cheaper Motherboard: Size ATX, Socket AM3+
    Looking for Cheaper PSU: 700+ Watts
    Looking for Cheaper Case: Size ATX


  • Administrators

    Sapphire Radeon R9 390
    Radeon

    lolno

    RAM:      CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB

    Why? 16 is a couple dollars more.

    HDD:      WD Blue 1TB WD10EZEX OEM

    it’s like it’s really 2005 and SSDs aren’t comparable in price.



  • @JetBoom:

    lolno

    Why? Radeon? I have read a lot, showing at least equal quality to the GeForce GTX 970. I’m not trying to win an argument, I want the best graphics card. Can you give me some sources or figures?

    Edit: Actually i found this and this.
    @JetBoom:

    Why? 16 is a couple dollars more.

    1. Can’t find 16GB $37 DDR3 - 1866Hz.
    2. I don’t think I need more than 8GB ram for a while.
    3. It’s going to get cheaper by the time I need more, so why not wait?
    @JetBoom:

    it’s like it’s really 2005 and SSDs aren’t comparable in price.

    I don’t want an SSD, I want a cheap thing with a lot of space, and I can’t find a 1TB drive for less than $100.



  • wait for 1070



  • CPU:      AMD FX-8350 Black Edition Vishera

    Right now an AMD processor is what you would get if you were on a tight budget since it has low performance and no upgrade path.
    Go with a 4th gen i5 in your price range, or if you want an upgrade path for the future go with a 6th gen i5.

    MBoard:  MSI 990FXA Gaming ATX (Looking for Cheaper of size ATX)

    Is there any reason you’re going for such a high end motherboard for a $1k build?
    If you don’t care about overclocking, you can get an LGA1150 motherboard for half price.

    GPU:      EVGA GeForce GTX 970

    Wait to buy this until the 1080 or 1070 in a releases on may 27th and June 10th because then you can either get the 1070 with twice the performance or get a 970 when the price has drastically dropped and people are selling them all over ebay.

    PSU:      CORSAIR CX series CX750M ATX12V (Looking for Cheaper with 700+Watts)

    Unless you’re going for multiple GPUs (don’t, it sucks) you’re really not going to need more than maybe 600W if even that. (I wouldn’t go below 500W.)
    Go for the RM series. It’s in the middle ground for reliability and I’ve heard some questionable things about the cs/cx series.

    RAM:      CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB

    Just an FYI, you’re not going to see much improvements over speeds of 1600mhz. It’s really not something to care about.

    HDD:      WD Blue 1TB WD10EZEX OEM

    Get at least a 128GB SSD to put your OS on. You have a budget, you’re not on a budget. 120GB that costs as much as your RAM

    CASE:    Corsair Carbide Series 200R Black

    Cases have pretty much become standardized. You could go for something that’s between $30-$40 and not lose much except maybe aesthetic. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146075

    PSU: How can I tell if it has enough ports to supply everything, like the GPU?

    If it’s over 600W, it’ll have the necessary PCIe power connectors for any GPU that has only 1 die.

    HDD: Looking for cheapest 1TB.

    That is pretty much the cheapest 1TB hard drive with good specs.



  • Humin,

    I made some of those decisions before you posted, but some of them not. So thanks for that!

    Edit: I updated my post.



  • For like 10 dollars more you should just get a 240gb ssd. That way you would t have to worry about shit yelling at you if you’re drunk and have too much in your downloads folder.



  • I keep running into situations of, “for just a little bit more”. And how is 120GB not enough? Less than 40GB for OS, so what about the 80GB remaining?



  • Well explain why you need a 750w psu then.



  • Because I want my computer to have more Horsepower so I can climb hills and accelerate more quickly when I give it an electric motor.



  • If you’re using PC Part Picker, then let me show you something.

    See this (at the top right just above the parts list)?

    That’s the maximum predicted power load. In other words, with my current build, no matter what I do, VR, video rendering, Crysis 3, max power load should not go past 318W.

    That leaves me 182W to play with (since I have a 500W power supply), which means if I changed my motherboard I could probably comfortably add another GTX 970 and SLI them.

    [header]Recommendations[/header]
    In no particular order…

    • Don’t use a Corsair case. They’re way overpriced for what you get. As for “size”, you need to be more specific. List the motherboard’s exact form factor. (there’s ATX Mid and ATX Low, for example, and some cases only support one or the other)

    • Be careful about motherboard features. The one you listed was built with SLI in mind (Z170), which you don’t need unless you’re planning to buy two video cards and SLI them.

    • Motherboards having terrible reviews is pretty common since 65% of them are fragile pieces of shit. I trust GIGABYTE though others had bad experiences with them. Also, ASRock is known for building either specialty motherboard that are top quality or budget motherboards that break if you breathe on them wrong.

    • If you want the build to last you a while AND you’re planning on VR (not likely, Gen 1 PC headsets are expensive as hell), wait for branded GTX 1070 or 1080 like others have said. Your favorite brands will have the new chipsets out in a month or two and they’ll be cheaper then the “founder’s edition” cards. Plus a GTX 1070 has the price of a 970 but the power of two and drawbacks of none.

    • If you don’t care about boot and load times then you’re free to drop the SSD and just grab a reliable HDD instead. Plus some things (Oculus Home, I’m looking at you) still need to be installed on the same drive as the OS even though it’s 2016 and having enough space for only the OS might be a problem down the road.

    • For the PSU, USE THIS CHART FOR THE LOVE OF GOD IT MAY SAVE YOUR BUILD FROM DYING IN A LITERAL FIRE. The one you listed is Tier 4 (Unstable) while the one I picked is Tier 3 (Stable), and for about 30 dollars more then mine you can get Tier 2 (Near top quality), specifically EVGA SuperNOVA 550W.



  • The Z170 was one of the cheapest ones I could find.
    How about this MOBO: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128892



  • Seems good, if expensive. Form factor on that board is ATX Mid and should work fine with my $35 case (and you get a usb3 port out of it too).

    I’m not kidding about the PSU fire though. Google it, there are tons of horror stories of bad PSUs.


  • Administrators

    @Striker:

    Why? Radeon? I have read a lot, showing at least equal quality to the GeForce GTX 970. I’m not trying to win an argument, I want the best graphics card. Can you give me some sources or figures?

    Because the drivers are absolute dog shit. Benchmarks don’t mean anything when your games are crashing. I’ve dealt with radeons and I know people who had radeons. They all have nvidia now and never looked back. Let’s not forget that the 1080 and 1070 are coming out real soon.

    1. Can’t find 16GB $37 DDR3 - 1866Hz.
    2. I don’t think I need more than 8GB ram for a while.
    3. It’s going to get cheaper by the time I need more, so why not wait?I don’t want an SSD, I want a cheap thing with a lot of space, and I can’t find a 1TB drive for less than $100.

    You want RAM with a clock of 1866 but you don’t want an SSD and you don’t want more than 8GB of ram? Enjoy your swap file I guess.


  • Game Admins

    @commandhat:

    That’s the maximum predicted power load. In other words, with my current build, no matter what I do, VR, video rendering, Crysis 3, max power load should not go past 318W.
    That leaves me 182W to play with (since I have a 500W power supply), which means if I changed my motherboard I could probably comfortably add another GTX 970 and SLI them.

    That’s fairly inaccurate, an inrush supply to two different components can demand more power than the rated supply of both combined, so you’ll never be save pushing close to 500W as you say. Whilst higher quality components in a PSU are certainly something to desire, the further away you are from capacity, the greater the systems longevity. Good power supplies are often most efficient at 60%-80% of their rated load but a 500W supplying 300W will often run warmer than a 700W supplying 300W.

    @JetBoom:

    have nvidia now and never looked back.

    Me too, I was attracted to the price/performance ratio of an AMD graphics card and dealt with a lot of crashing. I still have the occasional hiccup with newly updated drivers for NVIDIA, but it’s not nearly as bad as when I felt compelled to update with AMD.



  • stick with nvidia, that pos amd card ^ recommended kept crashing for me

    AMD is poo



  • @Benjy:

    an inrush supply to two different components can demand more power than the rated supply of both combined

    @Benjy:

    the further away you are from capacity, the greater the systems longevity.

    I have experienced both of these, which is why I wanted the larger PSU (750 was overkill). Above you can see I have gone with a 650W. Gives me more wiggle room in the future for adding things.
    @commandhat:

    Seems good, if expensive.

    I can’t find a cheaper Gigabyte board. Can you?
    @commandhat:

    Form factor on that board is ATX Mid and should work fine with my $35 case (and you get a usb3 port out of it too).

    Where can you see that info?

    Thank you for all your inputs. The build has been revised again.


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